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今冬のSARS

My Favorite Region

Quoted from the Shikoku Bilingual Guidebook by Akiko Takemoto and Steve McCarty

PREFACE

Visiting or living in Shikoku is something special, for this is land has always been the spiriturl sanctuary of the japanese people. No other place in japan has been visited by so many generations of people from all over the country.

They have of ten spent more than 60 days walking along the whole circuit of the eighty-eight temples that compose the longest, oldest and most popular pilgrimage in japan.

Even those who have arrived here in weariness of life, in unhappiness or weak health, have usually left the island with a lighter heart, more enlightened, and in many cases in improved health.

Though today the island is quite accessible and traveling around it can be very easy, some of the eighty-eight temples still remain very hard to reach.

This pilgrimaga is synonymous with this island and provides sanctuary to the aoul of japan.The scenes along the Shikoku Pilgrimage correspond well to what Shikoku offers - the Seto Inland Sea, the Uwa-kai Sea, the Pacific Ocean, the green mountains that crown a large part of the island, cosy little towns and middle-sized cities that fringe the comasts.

Its climate is mild; the seas are bountiful; the land is fertile. Naturally local people have been content with their blessed island, even if it has remained underdeveloped since the 8th century. Until then the northern coast of Shikoku was among the first areas to enjoy civilization in japan, as proved by so many archaeological findings.

Remote as it was for many centuries, however, Shikoku did not stand aloof but observed movements on the Inland Sea as an artery of japan`s cultural, political and economic development. On the other hand, Shikokus unique attractions such as the Shikoku Pilgrimage, Kompira worship and the Dogo Onsen Hot Spring spa have always drawn a large numder of people from the capitals and other parts of the main island of Honshu and neighboring Kyushu.

Naturally those visitors brought something new with them each time, just as refugees and exiles from the capitals added color to the island's history. They were welcomed and sometimes the culture they brought here was carefully preserved or developed even long after being forgotten in its homeland - language, festivals, arts and techniques.

Kagawa

Takamatsu City

- the Gateway to Shikoku -

Takamatsu is the capital of Kagawa Prefecture , which has traditionally been called the gateway to Shikoku , with the whole land of the prefecture jutting out into the seto Inland Sea like a porch.

JR Takamatsu Station next to Takamatu Harbor is tha terminal of the Kotoku Line for Tokushima Pref., the Yosan Line for Ehime Pref. and the Dosan Line for kochi Pref., while serving as the bus terminal to Tokushima Matsuyama and kochi City. Takamatsu Chikko just opposite JR Station is the terminal of Kotoden trams to and from Kotohira, the seat of Kompira-san. The New Takamatsu Airport handles non-stop flights to and from Seoul, Korea.

Another place in Takamatsu appropriate as a gateway to Shikoku is the Takamatsu Heike Monogatari Historical Museum that features not only the famous historical literature called Heike Monogatari with Shikoku or native to Shikoku.

Takamatsu became the capital in 1587 with the advent of Lord Ikoma I as governor of Sanuki Province. the castle he built on the harbor was succeeded by 4 generations of his descendants, and then by 11 generations of Matsudaira lords,governing Takamatsu Province with a fief of 120,000 koku.

One ninth of the former capital ground is preservedas Tamamo koen Park across the street from JR Takamatsu Station .The donjon is gone, but tow of the 15turrets and Mizute Gomon Gata from the 17 thcentury (Important Cultural Properties) survived the air raid in 1945. Admission:100yen.

Traditionalle the popular sightseeing stops in Takamatsu are Ritsurin koen Park near downtown and Yashima Plateau overlooking the city and the Inland Sea. they are accessible by bos or tram, with terminals at Takamatsu Chikko just opposite JR Station.

Ritsurin koen Park

30minutes' walk from JR Takamatsu Station.

The busy street in from of JR Takamatsu is the main street of downtown Takamatsu, and leads to the main gate to Ritsurin koen Park, a National Special Scenic Spot. this specious garden laid out with shapelymounds' cool pnods and about 160 varieties of trees and fiowers provides a classic example of a Japanese garden of even a Chinese Taoist Paradise fit for meditation.

Originally it belonged to a locar warlord, and then to Lord Ikoma. When it was transferred to the Matsudairas they spent five generations developing it into a larger stroll-type garden for their villa. Seasonal charms of flowers and blossoms snch as ume(Japanese plum blossoms) in February, camellias in March, cherry blossoms in April, wisteria and azaleas in May Irises and water lilies in june, giant lotuses in August, and Japanese bush clover in September, and brilliant maple leaves in November add to the pleasure of strolling.

kikugetsu-tei, one of the pond-sideteahouses, was originally one of the Matsudairas`formal buildings. The museum just inside the maingate houses a variety of mostly localhandicrafts. There is a zoo, too, inside the gate. Opendaily. Admission to the prek: About 300yen.

Yashima Plateau

Bus: 30minutes`ride from Chikko to the terminal (kotoden Bus for Yasima-sanjo or Yashima Hilltop).

Tram + Cable: 30 minutes` tram ride from Chikko to Yashima(Shido-sen Line) + 5minutes` cable-car ride.

Yashima, a pine-wooded tableland to the northeast of downtown takamatsu, is one of the world`s rare lavamesas, about 290 m high, 3 km wide, jutting 5 km out into the sea. The hilltop, overlooking the archipelago of the Inland Sea, features Yashima-ji(No.84), anaquarium and obseryvatories all linked by forestpromenades.

One of the odservatories Dankorei commands a view of the inlet fringed with memorials to the Gempei Yashima Battle (the second last battle in Gempei War fought between the tow rival clans, the Minamotos and the Tairas).

Once a British poet Edmund Blunden, visited Yashima and wrote a poem that was engraved on a stone here at Dankorei observatory:

Like a long roof, men say, and will they say,

This hill of warrior ghosts surmounts the plain...

Gempei war 794 Kyoto becam the capital of Japan and it enjoyed peace for about 350 years (811-1155) the longest peace Japan has ever attained in her history.

The last 30 years of this period, however, were far from peaceful. In 1156 the firstbattle took place in the capital, thus opening up a new era dominated by martialemotions. Tow martial clans the Minamoto and taira clans began to acquire greater and greayer influence in poritics throughfighting against each other in the name of the Emperor or the Ex-Emperor.

In 1159, the Tairas succeeded temporarily in staving off the Minamotos. The 20 years that followed saw the Tairas rise to increasingly control the Imperial Family, inviting animosity from the reigning Emperors, the Ex-Emperors, powerful priests, warriors and lords, to say nothing of the Minamotos in exile

In 1181 the patriarch of the clan Taira no kiyomori died just when the Tairas faced more battles against the Minamotos, who were gradually consolidating their power.

In 1183 the Tairas were driven from the Capital along with the 6-year-old Emperor An toku and his mother, who was Kiyomori,s daughter. they wandered far in search of supprters, while fighting losing battles.

Now in 1185, Minamoto no Yoshitsune attacked the remaining Tairas here at Yashima, then at Dan-no-ura in the westernmost corner of the Inland Sea, where the proud Taira finally fell, the noblewomen casting themselves into the sea with the child Emperor Antoku.

Thus the age of ancient nobility yielded to the age of Shoguns(1185-1867).

Yashima-ji Temple treasures in its museum afolding screen depicting the Gempei no Kassen Battles. the bell in the belfry, cast in Kyoto in 1223, was dedicated here for the repose of the defeated Tairas. But no one can strike the bell, as there is no hammer. they say, "Strike the bell, and invoke the ghosts of the Tairas."

on the last weekend in March the Gempei Yashima Festival is held, whose highlight is the Warriors' Pageant.

It was an insurrection caused by discord be-tween Emperor Goshirakawa(1127-92) and Ex-Emperor Sutoku (1119-64). Sutoku was defeated and banished to Sanuki(Kagawa Pref.) to dieamiserable death 8 years later. His ashes were buried at Temple 81. In 1184 the court elevated him to Shinto deity to placate his ghost.

Minamoto no yoshitsune(1159-89): by bringing about victory in the civil war, Yoshitsune had greatly helped Minamoto no Yoritomo, his elder brother, who in 1192 was to establish the first Shogunate at kamakura. But Yoshitsune had to spend the rest of his life escaping Yoritomo until four years later he killed himself. His tragic life and death was so appealing to Japanese sentiment that he has taken no heroic proportion in kabuki Non and joruri plays, based on what is called Yoshitsune Literature.

Very few Japanese visit Yashima without beingreminded of an episode shown in the picture above:

It was on the afternoon of Februare 19, 1185, that Minamoto on Yoshitune mounted another surprise attack against the Tairas at the then Yashima Island. Frightened by the imagined immensity of nenmy forces, the Tairas jumped into their boats and sailed off. Afierce battle lasted for hours.

Now the sun was setting. Both sides began to retreat, when a fair vessel parted from the Taira ligions and stopped about 80 m from the beach. Then a beautiful lady appeared from the cabin, produced a pole with a bright red fan on ist top and beckoned to the puzzled warriors on the shore.

What does she mean? said Yoshitune.

Perhaps she is inviting one of us to shoot the fan. Or she may be inviting you to come out onto the front line for her archers, said his attendant. Then let it be shot down by someone, said Yoshitune.

Soon a young man called Nasu no Yoichi appered on horseback with bow and arrow in his hands. The north wind was strong. The boat was tossing up and down. The fan painted with the golden sun at its center

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