I was born in Zentsuuji City, Kagawa prefectuure, Japan in February 22,1985.
I am a first year studentu at kgawa Junior Caiiege.
My major is Infant Education.
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Visiting or living in Shikoku is something special , for this island has always been the spiritual sanctuary of the Japanese people . No other place in Japan has been visited by so many generations of people from all over the country .
They have often spent more than 60 days walking along the whole circuit of right - eight temples that compose the longest , oldest and most popular pilgrimage in Japan .
Even those who have arrived here in weariness of life , in unhappiness or weak health , have usually left the island with a lighter heart , more enlightened , and in many cases in quite accessible and traveling around it can be very easy , some of the eighty - eight temples atill remain very hard to reach .
This pilgrimage circling the island is nationally known as O - Shikoku - san , showing that " dear old Shikoku Pilgrimage " is synonymous with this island and provides sanctuary to the soul of Japan . The scenes along the Shikoku Pilgrimage correspond well to what Shikoku offers - the Seto Inland Sea , the Uwa - kai Sea , the PacificOcean , the green mountains that crown a large part of the island , cosy little towns and middle - sized cites that fringe the coasts .
its climate is mild ; the seas are bountiful ; the land is fertile . Naturally local people have been content with their blessed island , even if it has remained underdeveloped since the 8th century . until then the northern coast of shikoku was among the first areas to enjoy civilization on Japan , as proved by so many archaeological findinfs .
Remote as it was for many centuries , however , Shikoku did not stand aloof but observed movements on the Inland Sea as an artery of Japan's cultural , political an economic development . On the other hand , Shikoku's unique attractions such as the shikoku Pilgrimage , Kompira worship and the Dogo Onsen Hot Spring spa have always drawn a large number of people from the capitals and other of the main island of Honshu and enighboring Kyushu .
Naturally those visitors brought something new with them each time , just as refugees and exiles from the capitals added and sometimes the culture they brought here was carefully preserved or developed even long after being forgotten in its homeland - ianguage , festivals , arts and techniques . These cultural assets now peculiar to Shikoku have added another dimension rewarding travelers to this island .
A new type of attraction in Shikoku is the fruit of modern technology here in the 1980's and 90's - the colossal bridges connecting Shikoku with the main ialand , pleasure resorts , theme parks , museums , skyline drives and relatively inexpensive golf courses . So the charm of Shikoku can rightly be called an exquiste coexistence of tradition and modernity , nature and art .
Last but not least is a spiritual climate of Shikoku that has produced people like the father of the Shikoku Pilgrimage , who is often credited as a father of Japanese culture , the man who aired the idea of the Seto Ohashi Bridge , and two young man who turned out to be most instrumental in carrying out the modernization of Japan , opening Japan's door to the world as an independent nation . There must have cosmopolitans in Japanese history . There must have been something inspiring on this island .
We hope this guidebook will help you enjoy Shikoku , and Japan herself seen through Shikoku , finding inspiration of your own by traveling around this small but great island . Bon voyage !
Takamatsu is the capital of Kagawa Prefecture, which has traditionally been called the gateway to Shikoku, with the whole land of the prefectufre jutting out into the Seto Inland Sea like a porch.
JR Takamatsu Station next to Takamatsu Harbor is the terminal of the Kotoku Line for Tokushima Pref., the Yosan Line for Ehime Pref. and the Dosan Line for Kochi Pref., while serving as the bus terminal to Tokushima, Matsuyama and Kochi City. Takamatus Chikko just opposite JR Station is the terminal of 'Kompira-san'.
The New Takamatsu Airport handles non-stop flights to nad from Seoul, Korea.
Another place in Takamatsu approprite as a gateway to Shikoku is the Takamatsu Heike Monogatari historical Museum that features not only the famous historical literature called Heike Mnogatari but also about 50 great historical figures closely associated with Shikoku or native to Shikoku.
Takamatsu became the capital in 1587 with the advent of Lord Ikoma I as governor of Sanuki Province. The castle he built on the harbor was succeeded by 4 generations of his descendants, and then by 11 generations of Matsudaira lords, governing Takamatsu Province with a fief of 120,000 koku.
One ninth of the former castle ground is preserved as Tamamo Koen Park across the street from JR Takamatsu Station. The donjon is gone, but tow of the 15 turrets and Mizute Gomon Gate from the 17 thcentury ( Important Cultural Properties ) survived the air raid in 1945. Admission:100 yen.
Traditionally the popular sightseeing spots in Takamatsu are Ritsurin Koen Park near downtown and Yashima Plateau overlooking the city and the Inland Sea. They are accessible by bus or tram, with terminals at Takamatsu Chikko just opposite JR Station.
The busy street in front of JR Takamatsu is the main street of downtown Takamatsu, and leads to the main gate to Ritsurin Koen Park, a National Special Scenic Spot. This spacious garden laid out with shpely mounds, cool ponds and about 160 varieties of trees and flowers provides a classic example of a Japanese garden or even a Chinese Taoist paradise fit for meditation.
Originally it belonged to local warlord, and then to Lord Ikoma. When it was transferred to the Matsudairas, they spent five generations developing it into a larger stroll-type garden for their villa.Seasonal charms of flowers and blossoms such as ume (Japanese plum blossoms) in February, camellias in March, cherry blossoms in April, wisteria and azaleas in August, and Japanese in November add to the pleasure of strolling.
Yashima, a pine-wooded tableland to the northeast of downtown Takamatsu, is one of the world's rare lava mesas, about 290 m high, 3 km wide, jutting 5 km out into the sea.
The hilltop, overlooking the archipelago of the Inland Sea, features Yashima-ji ( No.84)
1, an aquarium 2, and observatories all Iinked by forest promenades.
One of the observatories, Dankorei 3, commanads a view of the inlet fringed with memorials to the Gempei Yashima Battle (the second last battle in Gempei War fought between the tow rival clans, the Minamotos and the Tairas ).
One of the observatories, Edmund Blunden, visited Yashima and wrote a poem that was engraved on a stone here at Dankorei observatory:
Like a long roof, men say, and will they say,
This hill of warrior ghosts ghosts sumounts the plain...
In 794 Kyoto became the capital of Japan and it enjoyed peace for about 350 years (811-1155) - the longest peace Japan has ever attained in her history.
The last 30 years of this period, however, were far from peaceful. In 1156 the first battle took place in the capital, thus opening up a new era dominated by martial emotions. Tow martial clans - the Minamoto and Taira clans - began to acquire greater and greater influence in politics through fighting against each other in the name of " the Emperor " or " the Ex - emperor ".
In 1159, the Tairas succeeded temporarily in staving off the Minamotos. The 20 years that followed saw the Tairas rise to increasingly control the Imperial Family, inviting animosity from the reigning Emperors, the Ex - Emperors, powerful priests, warriors nad lords, to say nothing of the Minamotos in exile.
In 1181 the patriarch of the clan Taira no Kiyomori died just when the Taira s faced more battles against the Minamotos, who were gradually consolidating their power.
In 1183 the Tairas were driven from the Capitl along with the 6 - year - old Emperor Antoku and his mother, who was Kiyomori's daughter . They wandered far in search of supporters, while fighting losing battles.
Now in 1185, Minamoto no Yoshitsune attacked the remaining Tairas here at Yashima, then at Dan - no - ura in the westernmost corner of the Inland Sea, where the proud Taira finally fell, the noblewomen casting themselves into the sea with the child Emperor Antoku.
Thus the age of ancient nobility yielded to the age of Shoguns(1185 - 1867 ).
Yashima ji Temple treasures in its museum a folding screen depicting the Gempei no Kassen Battles. ( See p.24 ) The bell in the belfry, cast in Kyoto in 1223, was dedicated here for the repose of the defeated Tairas. but no one can strike the bell, as there is no hammer. They say, "Strike the bell, and invoke the ghosts of the Tairas."
On the last weekend in March the Gempei Yashima Festival is held, whose highlight is the Warriors' Pageant.
It was an insurrection caused by the discord be-tween Emperor Goshirakawa (1127-92) and Ex-Emperor Sutoku (1119-64). Sutoku was defeated and banished to Sanuki (Kagawa Pref.) to die a miserable death 8 years later. His ashes were buried at Temple 81. In 1184 the court elevated him to Shinto deity to placate his ghost. (See p.50)
Minamoto no Yoshitsune (1159-89): By bringing about victory in the civil war, Yoshitsune had greatly helped Minamoto no Yoritomo, his elder brother, who in 1192 was to establish the first Shogunate at Kamakura. But Yoshitsune had to spend the rest of his life escaping Yoritomo, until four years lster he killed himself. His tragic life and death was so appealing to Japanese sentiment that he has taken on heroic proportion in Kabuki, Noh and Joruri plays, hased on waht is called Yoshitsune Literature.
Very few Japanese visit Yashima without being reminded of an episode shoen in the picture above:
It was on the afternoon of February 19, 1185, that Minamoto no Yoshitsune mounted another surprise attack against the Tairas at the then Yashima Istland. Frightened by the imagined immensity of enemy forces, the Tairas jumped into their boats and sailed off. A fierce battle lasted for hours.
Now the sun was setting. Both sides began to retreat, when a fair vessel parted from the Taira legions and stopped about 80 m from the beach. Then a beautful lady appearedfrom the beach. produced a pole with a bright red fan on its top and beckoned to the puzzled warriors on the shore.
"What does she mean?" said Yoshitsune.
"Perhaps she is inviting one of us to shoot the fan.
Or she may be inviting you to come out onto the front line for her archers," said his attendant.
"Then let it be shot down by someone," said Yoshitsune.
Soon a young man called Nasu no Yoichi appeared on horseback with how and arrow in his hands. The north wind was strong. The boat was tossing up and down.
The fan painted with the golden sun at its center was fluttering on the pole.
Allthe Tairas in the boats and all the Minamotos on the shore were watching Yoichi. Waht would he do? Would he succeed?
Yoichi rode into the water as far as he could. But it was still about 70 m to the target. He closed his eyes and prayed. Then the wind fell for a moment. He shot. The arrow pierced through a little above the rivet. The fan, flying up a moment or two, came floating down, glittering in the setting sun. There was great applause from both sides.
Then a man in armor appeared in the same boat. He began to dance an elegared dance perhaps in genuine appreciation of Yoichi's archery. Then Yoichi got another order and shot down the dancing man, too.
Some said, "Good shot!" But others said, "Not fair."
The Tairas were silent this time. Was it a precursor of their demise? Tow months later, the Tairas finally fell.
3minutes' waik after leaving the bus at Toshogu mae (Kotoden Bus:
YaShikoku-mura Musum
*shima-sanjo-Toshogu-mae-Chikko
*3 minutes' walk from the cable-car station.
This is an open-air museum laid out at the foot of Yashima Plateau. About 20 old rural buildings from various parts of Shikoku have been reassembled here, including a Farmers' Kabuki Theater, peasants' houses, a fisherman's house, a sugar mill, a shed for steaming mulberry bark to make paper, and workshops for making soy sauceand so on. There is a reprica of Kazura-bashi from Nishi Iyayama-son, too.
Open daily : 8:30 - 16:30. Admission:500yen
On May 5, people including children from Shodoshima Island, from which the Kabuki Theater came here, stage an annual performance of their traditional farmers' kabuki.
*3minutes' walk from Nihon Tabako-maeBus Stop after 10 minutes' ride from JR Takamatsu.
*30 minutes' walk from JR Takamatsu Staition.
Japan's largest wax doll museum. The first floor is dedicated to the 41 dolls of historical figures or modern men and women of celebrity who have been closely associated with Shikoku.
The one of Kobo Daishi (p,190-199) in his nyujio
(p,195) has its own corner as aspecial exhibition.
the other dolls include;
The second floor exhibits about 300 dolls portraying the 17 scenes from the Heike Monogatari or The Tale of the Tairas . The Saga, composed of a large number of revealing episodes, was and still is an inexhaustible source of Japanese literature and art. Some of the most famous scenes took place at the foot of Yashima Plateau at the northeastern tip of Takamatsu.
One hi - tech doll seen at the end of the exhibition is what was called biwa hoshi or a blind biwa - playing bard who traveled around chanting The Tale of the Taira Family even before it was written down in the first half of the 13th century. Its opening passage is especially famous for its Buddhist idea of impermanence that gose as follows:
The doll begins to talk and sing the first line of the opening passage when it senses visitors approaching.
Open daily. Admission: 1200yen
Yoshida Shigeru ( 1878 - 1967 ), Prime Minister from 1946 to 1954, is credited with giving Japan direct - ion through her most difficult times after the war.
The Kojima - Sakaide Route, popularly known as the Seto Ohashi, was completed in 1988. It is the world's longest tow - tiered bridge system, stretching 13.1 km from Kojima to Sakaide, connecting the 5 islands in between.
The 11 bridges in the system include 3 suspension bridges, 2 twin cable - stayed, 1 truss and 5 viaducts.
The upper level accommodates amotor expressway of four lanes, and the lower contains Japan Railway's system for a busl track ordinary line at present and for a dual track superexpress line in the future.
The first person to air the idea of the Seto Ohashi Kagawa native, who at that time was constructing the first Shikoku Roads to link all the prefectures on the island . In 1889 Jinnojo disclosed his dream in a congratulatory speech he made as a member of the Prefectural Parliament at the opening ceremony of the first railroad in Shikoku between Marugame and Kotohira .
Exactly a century later, the Bridge came into being after decades of planning and ten years of construction, 13 million woakers involved ( with the loss of 17 lives ) , and coating 1,190,000 million yen .
Surprisingly, Jinnojo had also foretold man's traveling to the moon in his favorite drink - ing song of his own making, which went as follows :
One of the best points to view the Bridge is Yoshima Island (1 a central pier of the Bridge . It also serves as a singhtseeing outpost for the Shikoku and Inland Sea Districts, providing areas for those who like to enjoy bridge - viewing, seafood and shopping .
*To Yoshima : 20 minutes from JR Sakaide by Seyo Ohashi Express Bus
Another is a rotating tower 132m tall at the Seto Ohashi Memorial Park (2 at the foot of the Bridge in Sakaide . The Memorial Hall provides all kinds of informaion on the Bridge and its conatruction, while the part itself applies modern art to stone and stone and water .
Admission to the tower : 800 yen .
Admission to the Hall : 510 yen .
* To the Seto Ohashi Memorial Park : 10 minutes from JR Sakaide by shuttle bus ( free of charge ) .
The Gold Tower 3) near JR Utazu Staition offers a marvelous view, too . The 144m tower made of half - mirror glass is the tallest of its kind in Japan, housing the Sky Lounge, restaurants, stores and a World Toilet Museum .
Open daily . Admission to the tower : 800 yen / 1000 yen ( Toilet Museum included ) .
* To Gold Tower : 8 minutes' walk from JR Utazu .
* Bridge - viewing cruises are available from Keihan Fisherman's Wharf on Yoshima 1) Memorial Park 2) and Sakaide Port 4). ( 1000 - 1500 yen )
* 25 minutes' train ride from JR Takamatus .
* To the Castle : 15 minutes' walk from JR Marugame .
The three - storied donjon on top of a green hill crowns the city of
marugame . When a Marugame Province of 53,000 koku was formed in 1641, an old castle was reconstructed and the castle seen today dates back to 1660, one of the few genuine Edo Period castler remaining in Japan .
The present - day Marugame is famous for uchiwa or round paper fan manufactur - ing, producing about 90% of these fans in Japan .
The Castle Park, 15 minutes' walk from JR Marugame, is surrounded by moats, featuring the donjon, a couple of main gates ( all Inportant Cultural Properties ) and walls from the 17th century . The 4 - level 60m ramparts, the tallest and among the most beautiful in Japan, also contribute to the castle .
* O - shiro Matsuri Castle Festival is held on the 3rd weekend in May .
* The Inoku Genichiro Modern Art Museum adjacent to JR Marugame Station is ded - icated to Inokuma Genichiro ( 1902 - 93)
Banshoen Garden built in 1688 as a villa for the Lord of the Province is 10 miutes' drive from downtown Marugame . One of the galleries there houses Chinese ceramic ware and a collection of Iranian earthenware and glassware dating back to 2500 B .C . through the 1200's A . D . Open daily .
Admission to the Garden & Galleries : 1000yen
(Students : 600 yen , Children : 400 yen )
10 minutes' walk from Nakazu - bashi Bus Stop after
10 minutes' ride from Marugame Toricho near the castle . ( Kotosan Bus Zentsuji via Tadotsu )
( From JR Kotohira ) 5 minutes to JR Zentsuji by ordinary train .
( From JR Takamatsu ) 40 minutes to JR Zentsuji by express train ( Dosan Line ).
* 25 minutes' walk from JR Zentsuji along the street in front of the station .
Zentsuji Temple ( No. 75 ), is known as the birthplace of Kobo Dashi Kukai . ( See p. 190 : THE SHIKOKUPILGRIMAGE ).Kukai is one of the greatest geniuses Japan has ever produced . He made a great contribution in remolding Japanese religion , while making unparalleled achievements as a scholar , poet , artist , calligrapher , sculptor , architect , social worker , inventor , discoverer and civil engineer .
The giant camphortrees near the five - storied pagoda in the East Precinct are said to have already been seversl hundred years old when Kukai was born in 774 . The Nieido Hall in the West Precinct at the foot of the green hill is the Birthplace .
Visitors may traverse the basement of the hall along a pitch - dark path . This introspective journey is called kaidm - meguri . The entrance fee includes the admission to the Museum . ( 300 yen )
The utter blackness along the path symbolizes the darkness of the human mind or human ignorance of the Truth . The notice says : ' Go along with the palm of your left hand pressed against the left - hand wall . The wall , painted with mandalas , angels and lotus flowers , is the Buddha's Way . You will be safely guided as long as you are on His Way . ''
After the Kaidm - meguri , arrows guid you to the Museum . The temple treasures exhibited there include a small clay pagoda Kukai molded at 7 , a bowl used by Kukai as amendicant , a robe and a ritual stick ( a National Treasure ) of Indian make , both presented to Kukai by his Chinese master Abbot Hui - kuo , and a sutra acroll ( a National Treasure ) with each of the Chinese characters accompanied by little Bodhisattva on a lotus pedestal ; Kukai did the calligraphy , his mother the painting .
Shorinji Kempo is not merely a spot or martial art , but a religious exercise to approach the Buddha's apirit in the principles of '' self - realization '' and '' help each other . ''
It was started by So Doshin I ( 1911 -1980 )in 1947 . Tow years befor he has been repatriated from Manchuria , thenortheastern part of China that '' Imperialist Japan '' held for 13 years till the end of World War 2 . Doshin had seen how people could be dehumanized in the dire extremities of war and its aftermath , '' Developing good humanity is the only way to save Japan and the world at large , '' he kept saying to himself . Doshin , who had learned various martial arts in China , pondered over the Zen philosophy of Bodhidharma himself was said to have practised about 1500 years ago when he brought zen from India to China .
Finally Doshin succeeded in restoring and reorganizing the whole body of that art , which he named Shorinji Kempo . Now its Headquarters has more than 100 branches in 23 countries in the world .
The Shorinji Kempo Headquarters
(0877 ) 33-1010 is on the southern slope of Tokyo Koen Park Hill 15 minutes' walk from JR Tadotsu Station .
the Bodhidharma Festival is held on the lst Sunday in October .
- ( From JR Takamatus to JR Kotohira )
- 60 minutes by shuttle train ( Dosan Line ) .
- ( From Tkamatus Chikko )
- 70 minutes' train ride to Kotohira ( Kotoden ) .
- ( From JR Okayama )
- : 67 minutes' train by special express .
- : 2 hours to Kotoden Kotohira Station by Seyo Ohashi Kosoku bus .
- * Especially Noted Product : lttobori woodcarving .
Kotohira - gu , a great shrine complex , often affectionately called Kompira - san , has been a celebrated destination for pilgrims and tourists for hundreds of years .
According to leged , Kompira - san came into being when Kumbhira - a guardian god of Buddism , originally a Hindu crocodile god of the Ganges , was beckoned by a Buddhist priest of Matsu - ji , a thousand - old temple in this neighborhood .
Kumbhira from the holy waters of the Ganges was naturally belived to be a mighty patron deity for seamen , fishermen and rice - growing farmers , and in later years came to be considered a Great Incarnation of the Buddha himself .
But the temple remained a Shinto shrine in part , with Omononushi - no - mikoto , the native god of fertility , medicine and commerce also summoned from the mythological land of Izumo . Omononushi - no mikoto , along with Daikoku - ten representing Chinese folk religion , were then identified with the Indian god Kumbhira ( Kompira ) , a case of religious internationalism in classical Japan .
At the foot of mountain there stands Kompira Oshibai Kabuki Theater 8) , the oldest Kabuki theater remaining in Japan . A guide shows visitors around the building including the primitive but ingenious device to operate the rotating stage.
Open daily except Tuesdays .
Admission : About 300 yen
In Kabuki Season in mid - April or May , first - class Kabuki actors are invited from Tokyo or Osaka to perfron under almost the same conditions as their ancestors did the 17th through 19th centuries .
For further information about the dates and tickets call the office of JR Shikoku in Takamatus . ( 0878 ) 23-0973
* To JR Kanonji from JR Takamatus : 70 minutes by shuttle train .
* To the Park : 20 minutes' walk across downtown Kanonji .
Kotohiki Koen Park features a pine - wooded sand beach and a shady hill with the ancient shrine Kotohiki Hachiman - gu at the top and two of the 88 Temples - Jinne - in and Kannon - ji - at the foot .
One should not miss the Zenigata huge coin known as Kan - ei - tsho carved about 2 m deep in the white sand . It is best viewed from a hilltop observatory behind the Hachiman - gu Shrine . Its broad rim looks completely circular from there , but in reality it is elliptic with a circumference of 345m . When and how it came into being is a mystery , providing a subject for endless dedate among local people .
* Especially Noted Products : olives , olive goods , soy sauce and somen noodls.
Shodoshima Island is the second largest island in the Seto Inland Sea . It is nicknamed " Olive Island " as olive saplings were successfully transplnted in 1908 from Greece to the soil of this island of all places in Japan .
In spring and autumn a great number of pilgrims arrive here to make a tour around the 88 Sacred Places of this island . for further information , call the shodoshima Reijo - kai ( 0879 )620-0227 .
In summer , Futagoura Beach 2) , Silver beach 12)and many other beaches are favored by sun - bathers , swimmers , camers , wind - surfers and water - skiers.
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