Title:Three Pagodas
Subtitle:A Journey Down the Thai-Burmese Border
Author: Christian Goodden
Published:1996, 2002 (revised)
Publisher:Jungle Books
Price:950 B


The author engaged himself in a series of border journeys in early 1990s--mostly on a 125cc Honda Wing, but also on foot, boat and hitching a pickup--and put them together to form this travelog.

This book isn't for everybody. To thoroughly appreciate the author's accounts, the reader should himself have explored around the border area rather extensively, and have some background knowledge of--or willingness to learn--the anthropology and sociology of various ethnic groups.

Today, a decade after the author's exploration, this book has a historical value. Many things have changed--or modernized--along this route and this book provides invaluable accounts of how things were in yesteryears.

Also, in this 2002 edition, the author provides update information at the end of each chapter, allowing the reader to grasp social/political transitions during the past decade.

Supplied with 30 detailed maps.


1. Mr Donut Coming Soon: The KMT
Chiang Mai - Chiang Dao - Muang Ngai - Muang Na - Kae Noi - Chong - Wiang Haeng
incl. Brief history of the KMT in Burma and Thailand

2. The Wiang Haeng Hilton
Wiang Haeng

3. Poppy Men: Warlords Mo Heng & Khun Sa
Piang Luang

4. Spirit Well & Spirit Cave
Wiang Haeng - Kong Lom - Muang Noi - Pai - Soppong - Luuk Kao Laam - Bo Pi - Mae Hongson

5. Tuk-Tuks in Shangri-La
Mae Hong Son

6. Dark Secrets: The Wa
Mae Or
incl. Maha San and recent Wa history

7. The Dragon & The Wind: The 'Long-Neck' Padaung & 'Long-Ear' Kayaw
Mai Nai Soi

8. Worsted in Wizardry: The Lawa & The Karenni
Mae Hong Son - Khun Yuam - Mae La Noi - Mae La Oop - Mae Sariang
incl. Some notes on the Lawa people, their history and culture, A thumbnail sketch of the Karenni (Kayah) people & state, the KNPP & KNLP

9. Rebel HQ: The Karen People & Rebellion
Mae Sariang - Mae Saam Laep - Manerplaw
incl. Karen people and culture

10. Singing Girls
Manerplaw - Ban Ta Song Yang - Mae Salid - Mae Ramat - Mae Sot

11. Death Highway
Mae Sot - Saw Oh - Pop Pra - Wa Lay - Rom Glao No4 - Mae Klong Ki - Um Pang

12. The Driverless Komatsu
Um Pang - Klo To/Sa Kaang Thit - Nu Po - Kui Le Tor

13. Extraterritorial
Kui Le Tor - Boeng Kloeng - Mae Ta Ro Ta - Lae Tong Ku

14. A Jungle Man-God: The Telakhon Rishi Sect
Lae Tong Ku
incl. History and culture of Lae Tong Ku & the Telakhon rishi sect

15. Eleven Tigers
Lae Tong Ku - Kui Le Toeng - Muang Rae - Titabong - Ti Po Choe - Ti Po Mo

16. Three Pagodas: The Mon
Ti Po Mo - Ti Lai Pa - Ko Ta Doe - Doe Nae Po - Sa Nae Pong - Pra Chedi Saam Ong (Three Pagodas)
incl. Mon people, history and culture
Route Sketch